- Title: La Partie de Cache-Cache – Robe en Ruban
- Author: Gazette du Bon Ton
- Date: 1921
- Medium: Pochoir print
- Condition: Excellent
- Inches: 6 3/4 x 9 [Image]
- Centimeters: 17.15 x 22.86 [Image]
- Product ID: 555529
“The Hide and Seek Party – The Ribbon Dress” from Gazette du Bon Ton No. 1, 1921.
Between November 1912 and December 1925, with a hiatus during World War I between summer 1915 and January 1920, the Gazette du Bon Ton sought to be “the place where couturiers and painters collaborate to compose the silhouette of their time.” It was the brain child of Lucien Vogel, a dynamic Frenchman who had studied at the École Alsacienne and had become a force in the fine art edition and printing world. Fascinated by nineteenth century hand-colored engravings from the Journal des dames et des modes, he set out to create a modern luxury magazine that would be the epitome of good taste.
Vogel gathered la crème de la crème of illustrators who worked in a new minimal visual style characterized by strong line delineations and flat color surfaces; Georges Lepape, ,Bernard Boutet de Monvel, Pierre Brissaud, André E. Marty, Charles Martin Edouardo Garcia Bénito, and more than eighty visual artists. Intended to convey “the most elegant, the most witty and the most novel collection of apparel ideas,” these creators not only illustrated the work of leading Parisian design houses, they also designed garments of their own that were featured in plates included in each publication. Produced in limited editions on handmade paper, the series spared no expense and used the pochoir, or stencil, technique to hand watercolor the hors-texte plates.
Through vision and uncompromising standards, the series led rather than followed and helped to blur the boundaries between art and fashion. In 1915, Condé Nast co-published an issue of the Gazette du Bon Ton with Lucien Vogel. During the War hiatus, Nast employed Gazette artists for Vogue covers and, in early 1921, he bought a controlling interest in the Gazette. Eventually Lucien Vogel became the first Art Director of French Vogue and his wife, Cosette de Brunoff, became its first Editor. Henri Bidou, in the Gazette’s first issue after the War, wrote quite accurately about fashion and tastemakers, “If we write here the story of dresses, the dresses will write in due time the story of their times.”
Dr. Anne Bissonnette, Kent State University